Audemars Piguet and Alinghi - Part II

part 2
rising to the challenge

-10
THE RACE HAS ALREADY BEGUN…

For both Audemars Piguet and Alinghi, the 32nd America’s Cup began just after the magnificent victory in 2003: first on the drawing boards and computer screens, under the attentive eye of the designers and engineers, and then in the workshops, before continuing on the water with the sailboat itself… Totally committed to this competition in which concessions are not an option, all members of the team and of the Manufacture have made their own contribution. The former have built an exceptional boat, a high-tech machine designed to win, while the latter have created a sophisticated and innovative instrument dedicated to these exceptionally talented sailors: Royal Oak Offshore Alinghi Team Chronograph. Like the architects of Alinghi whose motto is lightness and durability, the watchmakers of the Manufacture have chosen an unexpected material: forged carbon. Two full years of research, development and countless tests were required to ensure it was endowed with all the necessary properties. Stemming from values shared by Alinghi and Audemars Piguet, this ultra-light chronograph equipped with functions designed specifically for the America’s Cup underscores the Manufacture’s unswerving commitment to an already legendary team. Georges-Henri Meylan

A STRATEGY, A TEAM, AN OBJ ECTIVE

-9
IDEAS AND INDIVIDUALS

A watch is first and foremost about individuals. While they are keenly aware that each person’s responsib-ility matters throughout a lengthy manufacturing process, they also know that high demands are the surest guarantee of quality. Watchmakers, engineers, calibre-designers, along with the dedicated R&D team set up for this project, the designers and all those involved at each stage of production: all have played an essential role in creating the Royal Oak Offshore Alinghi Team Chronograph.

A FEW GRAMS OF CARBON…

Lightness and resistance were the key goals targeted both by the Alinghi architects and by the creators of the Royal Oak Offshore Alinghi Team Chronograph, which is why both sets of experts opted for an exceptional material: carbon. The hull and sails of Class America boats owe their lightness to the use of carbon fibre. In turn, the watchmakers in Le Brassus, after taking a close interest in the aeronautical industry and pursuing their investigations, discovered a new concept applying forging technology to machining carbon and resulting in forged carbon. Its superior mechanical performances and chemical stability, combined with excellent shock-resistance and lightness, determined the choice of forged carbon as the most innovative material suited to the Royal Oak Offshore Alinghi Team Chronograph. Nonetheless, its exact composition along with the manufacturing methods and tools all represented major obstacles that had to be rapidly surmounted because, like Team Alinghi itself, Audemars Piguet had very little time ahead of it. The countdown thus began in the spring of 2004. Working in a resolutely “start-up” style, a small team at Audemars Piguet set to work in secret. Their goal was to create the octagonal case of the chronograph by successfully combining mechanical realities and aesthetic constraints. The complex shape of the case and bezel must not only feature perfect resistance along all axes, but also sharp angles and a perfect surface finish.

The bezel on the Royal Oak Offshore Alinghi Team Chronograph corresponds to the demands of high-end watchmaking: a shimmering play of light over a satin-brushed surface with a soft, gentle touch.

-8
The arrangement of these carbon wire pieces determines the quality of the model, making each inherently unique.

THE SECRETS OF RESISTANCE

In the first phase of production, Audemars Piguet developed the steel case and bezel dies, housing a few centimetres of carbon wire pieces. Measuring a mere 1 or 2 mm in diameter, this wire is itself composed of several thousand 7-micron carbon fibres held together by a resin wire. The arrangement of these pieces of wire determines the quality of the part, which means each is truly unique. The die is then compressed at a high temperature under pressures of over 300 kg/cm2, compared to customary pressures of a few kilos per square centimetre.

In the second phase, Audemars Piguet demonstrated the full range of its machining expertise, acquired through years of practice in the making of carbon movement bridges and plates. The inside of the case and correction of the various drilled holes were thus duly completed. Likewise, in compliance with the demands of high-end watchmaking, the surface of the case was given a slightly iridescent satiny-smooth appearance and a silky-soft feel. This teamwork, entirely conducted in the workshops in Le Brassus and driven by a spirit of constant innovation, resulted in an ultra-light large-sized chronograph. The forged carbon version weighs a mere 100 g.

RUBBER AND CERAMICS

These two materials borrowed from the automobile and aeronautical industries enjoy pride of place in the Royal Oak Offshore Alinghi Team Chronograph. Synthetic rubber enables incomparably precise execution and a perfect surface finish. These appreciable qualities are reinforced by resistance to seawater, to chlorine, to detergents and to fragrances, making it the ideal material for the strap of this seagoing chronograph. It has also been vulcanised to strengthen it, while preserving an invariable degree of elasticity. Cutting-edge research in another field led to the development of innovative ceramics. For the crown and the pushers, Audemars Piguet chose a ceramic material with highly specific physical properties. It underwent a series of particularly sophisticated treatments that called upon the full range of skills mastered by the engineers and watchmakers within the Manufacture. The crucial qualities of this technical ceramic material are its high resistance to friction and wear, and its exceptionally smooth final appearance.

-7

IN THE WAKE OF THE ROYAL OAK

When first introduced in 1972, the Royal Oak overturned existing codes in the field of Haute Horlogerie by raising steel to the status of a precious metal and by offering a high-end sports watch. Twenty years later, the Royal Oak Offshore transformed rubber for devotees of extreme sports. Today, the Royal Oak Offshore Alinghi Team Chronograph makes its own contribution by exploiting the qualities of forged carbon. This ultra-light, streamlined model is clearly inspired by the world of competitive sailing. Loyal to the spirit of the Royal Oak, it features excellent wearer comfort thanks to the direct integration of the strap within the case middle. So as to highlight the sporting look of this chronograph, the Manufacture has designed an oversized buckle for the extra-broad rubber strap and fitted it with an undulating pin.

THE ALINGHI SPIRIT

Alinghi owes much of its success to the unity of a group made up of the finest specialists. In tribute to the winner of the America’s Cup 2003, the back of the chronograph is stamped with a motif depicting the team in action and engraved with the inscription Royal Oak Offshore Alinghi Team – Limited Edition. It thereby vividly evokes the spirit prevailing during races and which drive not only those onboard but also those on the ground who are active in a wide variety of fields: design, meteorology, marketing and administration. The same spirit also prevails in the workshops of the Manufacture in Le Brassus and has inspired the efforts leading to the creation of an exceptional new timepiece.

-6 THE ART OF FINE-TUNING DETAILS Particular attention has been lavished on the details that make the Royal Oak Offshore Alinghi Team Chronograph an exceptional model. The dial features aesthetic accents reflecting the nautical world: the red-rimmed six-hour counter at 6 o’clock and twenty-minute counter at 9 o’clock are graced with an openworked hand shaped like a ship’s prow, while the flamboyant Alinghi logo takes the place usually reserved for the 3 o’clock numeral.

The countdown aperture appears in the upper right-hand part of the dial. It counts off the minutes prior to the start of a regatta and gradually becomes red as it nears the crucial moment when the boats cross the start line. The ceramic pushers, forged carbon crown guards and the crown itself form a homogeneous whole that is seamlessly integrated with the flowing lines of the case. The same concern for continuity is reflected in the wristband directly integrated with the case middle to ensure optimal wearer comfort. Whereas the sapphire crystal is free of any metal support, the legendary octagonal bezel is highlighted by a red silicon joint and black PVD-coated steel screws.

A SPORTS MODEL TO THE CORE

While extremely pleasant to wear in everyday life because of its light feel on the wrist, this timepiece is also a precious instrument for regatta enthusiasts and devotees of sailing competitions. To fulfil the latter role, it is equipped with a “flyback” chronograph function and a regatta countdown aperture, two devices perfectly tailored to the complex procedure of America’s Cup race starts.

An exceptional design and functions perfectly suited to the complex nature of America’s Cup races.

-5

A HIGH-TECH PEDIGREE

In addition to the version distinguished by an all forged carbon case, the Royal Oak Offshore Alinghi Team Chronograph is also available with a forged carbon bezel on a pink gold or platinum case. These interpretations offer a daring alliance between high-tech materials and precious metals. The forged carbon dial, ceramic pushers and vulcanised rubber strap are thus ennobled by their association with the most refined materials.

MASTERING TIME

The movement powering the Royal Oak Offshore Alinghi Team Chronograph has been developed by the Manufacture Audemars Piguet. While providing a real-time experience of the amazing duels fought out in America’s Cup races, it also serves as a reminder of the precious and… decisive nature of each and every second!

Representing an ingenious device first developed for aviation chronographs in the 1930s, the “flyback” function is an invaluable asset. It enabled pilots using their watch to estimate their approach to a given point by helping them avoid any discrepancy in time measurement. This was made possible by enabling them to restart the chronograph function using just one of the pushers, instantly resetting the hand to zero and starting a new timing operation without needing to be stopped first. This simplified procedure considerably enhanced the accuracy of this method of keeping track of time.