SIHH 2009: Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon Regulator Watch With Invisible Setting

The crafts of haute joaillerie and haute horlogerie are brilliantly merged in the new Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon Regulator watch with invisible diamond setting.  This exquisite tonneau-shaped white gold wristwatch summarizes the artisanal essence of the Vacheron Constantin Metiers d'Art Collection--an assemblage of watches which profoundly illustrate why the famous Geneva house has been synonymous with elite horological luxury for more than 250 years. 

An exemplar of the jewelers art, the 39.60 x 50mm white gold case of this Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon Regulator watch is entirely paved with 270 baguette-cut diamonds, which have a combined weight of approximately 12.25 carats.  The underlying gold case--completely invisible to the eye--features an exacting system of "tracks" which bears the perfectly cut baguette diamonds.  Adding to the extreme difficulty of the task--one shared equally by diamond cutter and goldsmith--is the intricacy of the Malte case, with its distinctive angles.  Equally magnificent is the 18-karat white gold dial, which is paved with 5.63 carats of baguette diamonds--261 stones in all.  Four additional baguette diamonds also adorn the white gold crown.  In all, more than 2,000 hours were demanded to create the robe of diamonds which clothe this Vacheron Constantin timepiece.  The adamantine magnificence further elevates the beauty of the tourbillon cage, which revolves in its aperture once per minute, and displays the distinctive Maltese Cross, symbol of Vacheron Constantin.  Regulator hours are shown at 12 o'clock and minutes appear at center--both intervals are indicated by sword-shaped hands in black oxidized gold.  

The Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon Regulator watch with invisible setting is animated by the manually wound 1795R caliber, which is revealed through a sapphire exhibition caseback. Designed and manufactured in-house by Vacheron Constantin, this shaped caliber is a comprehensive demonstration of the classical watchmaking arts.   Entirely finished by hand, the 1795R caliber displays Cotes de Geneve patterns on bridges, edges with fine chamfering, and screws and jewel sinks which have been beveled or finely polished.  Approximately eleven hours of work are invested into the completion of these finishing techniques, which are accomplished via traditional means such as hardwood pegs, polishing pastes, stones, and buffers.  This artistry serves to emphasize the mesmerizing beauty of the tourbillon, whose intricate escapement-bearing cage continually revolves to counteract the effects of gravity.  Frequency of the screw-set balance is a classical 18,000 beats per hour, and power reserve of the barrel is 40 hours.

The artistry of the Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon Regulator watch with invisible setting extends to the hand-stitched alligator leather strap.  Here, a folding clasp in 18-karat white gold matches the opulence of the case, with its 30 baguette-cut diamonds.  Water resistance of this exceptional timepiece is rated for 30 meters.